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We have also gathered together some useful tips and tricks to help you in making the most from your kit. If you have anything relevant to contribute to this page please drop us a line. Cowls and Pilots To remove the waste material from around your pilot or two part cowl, just sand it away DO NOT USE SCISSORS this will make the job harder. Simply sand the flange of excess material off
by rubbing on a sheet of 240 grit abrasive paper on a flat surface. Bond the front to a piece of 1/32 balsa sheet. Cut the balsa a little bigger than the forming (1-2 mm all round) this make aligning both halves easier. Align the back to the front and bond in place. When the glue bond is strong enough sand off the balsa centreboard to finish your pilot. GENERAL TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR WARBIRD We supply a ply rectangle as a dihedral brace; this is an optional depending on your experience and preference. If you do decide to fit it please make sure you use epoxy to fix it in place As the position of the elevator servo is down to you, we have not completed slotting the fuselage for the elevator snake. If you have problems please contact me Page 2 of the instructions shows a ply sub-trailing edge. This is purely a construction suggestion and the parts are not included in the kit We use Diamond Tape for our hinges, but if you prefer plastic hinges you should insert balsa in the trailing edge for them to fix to Aileron servo's can be let into the side of the fuselage leaving a short push rod on top of the wing A black canopy can be used to hide the receiver. This can be done by painting the inside of the clear canopy with matt black, or by specifying a black canopy when you order Working with EPP This material cuts and works well with a hot wire, which should be slightly cooler than when using blue or white foam. To make holes for
your battery, radio etc, first cover the area to cut with masking tape.
HOT METAL WILL BURN YOUR SKIN! To put snakes in a surface, cut undersize grooves with a burr in a mini drill. Use a steel straight edge as a guide Cables can be hidden but simply pushing them into a scalpel cut in the surface of the EPP Sanding EPP is messy but easy. Don't be to gentle! Use 80 Grit paper, and do not sand in one place for long. Covering your Warbird Your choice of covering is similar to that of covering a balsa plane. Tape This is the cheapest
and by far the most practical finish. Solatex Easy to apply and accepts paint of all kinds (we highly recommend acrylic car aerosols) Pro-trim & Pro-film An excellent covering
to use. Believe it or not, it can be painted with acrylics by using this
method. This method has been proved to be very successful and durable. We also strongly recommend applying a glass filament tape under all coverings Balsa skin Yes we are serious! The worst you can do is knock a lump off in a crash. All you do then is stick a new piece in and paint it, it's that easy! PLEASE NOTE Prime all EPP parts with a spray adhesive before covering. We use B&Q carpet adhesive or Evostick Timebond
Demon Tweaks For your standard 600 motor You could be forgiven
for thinking that a new motor must be in the best of health, and it's
not far off. There are several
tricks which can be tried and we at Vortex don't claim to know them all,
and just like anyone else we sometimes ask "the experts". First you need a non
metallic jug with about 3" of water in. Add 4 - 5 drops of washing
up liquid to the water. Connect the flight
pack directly to the motor and slowly lower it into the water. All being well, there
should be a noticeable improvement in performance. If all this seems like a lot of extra work and you would like to really get your new Vortex Warbird around the sky, then we suggest fitting a Hot 600 Buggy motor as a replacement for the standard motor supplied in the kit. Typical parts found in a Vortex Warbirds kit
COVERING
YOUR MODEL IN BROWN PARCEL PAPER
When you are happy that the airframe is ready
for covering, give the complete aircraft a coat of undiluted PVA glue
and let it dry thoroughly. When dry use 240 Grit paper to de-nib the
bits of EPP and PVA which have appeared. The surface should be quite sooth
and flat when you have finished Cut the brown paper into manageable sized
panels - don't be tempted to try big panels, as the compound curves and
shapes will result in creases. Cover the sides and finally the top, again using three pieces of paper per section Leave for at least 12 hours to dry before painting Here is an example of a BPPC ME 109
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